Mount Jefferson, Oregon (10497 ft)
|
|
|
|
|
Jefferson Park Glacier bergschrund
|
|
Willamette National Forest
The Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs
Summitpost
Route: South Ridge via Pamelia Lake
Start at the Pamelia Lake Trailhead (3100 feet) off of
Oregon Highway 22 east of Idanha. Take the Pamilia Trail east along Pamelia
Creek to Pamelia Lake and follow the trail along the north shore. At a
trail junction turn left and head north towards Milk Creek and the PCNST.
Along Milk Creek at the junction with the PCNST turn right and climb south
above Pamelia Lake. At 7 miles from the trailhead you will pass along
the west shore of Mud Lake. Just beyond this is Shale Lake (5900 feet)
which offers many pleasant camp sites. Note that this is a limited access
area, so you will need a special permit available from the Willamette
National Forest to hike and camp on this approach route.
The climb begins by following a climbers' trail as best
one can towards the South Ridge. Aim to reach the South Ridge just north
of Goat Peak. Take a compass bearing towards camp or record a GPS waypoint
at camp to facilitate finding camp on the return.
Climb the South Ridge towards the summit. At about 9000
feet the ridge steepens and the footing becomes less firm, but higher
one can find rock outcroppings for better footing. This leads to the Red
Saddle (10250 feet), just below the South Summit Pinnacle.
From the Red Saddle traverse north below the rocky summit
pinnacles. Early in the season the traverse will be on steep snow, and
may pass below ice hanging from the summit rock. There may also be deep
runnels in the snow and the snow may be soft from its western exposure
to the afternoon sun. Consider traversing high on the snow to take advantage
of any moat that might be forming between the snow and the pinnacle rock.
Once across the snow traverse continue traversing east
below the summit rock. You should find a "trail" leading up shattered
rock to just below the summit. Here traverse right to find an easy ramp
leading to a short, exposed scramble to the summit.
Descend the same route as your ascent. Take a bearing towards camp before
leaving the South Ridge, especially if darkness is approaching.
|
|
|
Mount Jefferson's South
Ridge
|
|
|
|
|
Traversing from the Red
Saddle
|
|
|
|
|
Setting a fixed line to
the summit
|
|
|
|
|
Traverse - Early Season
Descent
|
|
|
|
|
Traverse - Late Season Descent
|
|
References
- Thomas, Jeff, Oregon High: A Climbing Guide, Keep Climbing
Press, 1991.
- USGS Volcanoes, Mount Jefferson: http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Jefferson/
Eighteen Major Northwest Peaks
Oregon's 100 Highest Peaks
