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Mount Stuart, Washington (9415 ft)

Mount Stuart from Ingalls Pass (south)
Mount Stuart from Ingalls Pass (south)
Mount Stuart from Colchuck Peak (east)
Tom Rodgers Photo
High on the North Ridge of Mount Stuart
High on the North Ridge of Mount Stuart

Wenatchee National Forest
Summitpost

Description

"Mount Stuart has been pronounced the single greatest mass of exposed granite in the United States and dominates the Central Washington Cascades. Mount Stuart lies at the west end of a long string of granitic peaks (the Stuart Range) and is a massive east-west wedge supported by the E, W, and N Ridges, and has a centrally placed summit pyramid. Predominate southwesterly winds keep the SW flanks of the peak relatively bare while depositing considerable snow in the N and NE facing cirques to sustain the Stuart, Ice Cliff and Sherpa Glaciers. Recent retreat has left hanging glaciers and ice cliffs well away from their terminal moraines. The entire S flank is combed by gullies leading at intervals to the summit ridges. These gullies are separated and interspersed by complex and precipitous merging subridges and headwalls. Because of its height and alpine nature, Mount Stuart has dangers unique to peaks in this area and can be a dangerous lightning target. The mountaineering problems are magnified by the mountain's massive dimensions and complexity."

- Beckey, Fred, Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes, Vol. 1, Columbia River to Stevens Pass, Third Edition, The Mountaineers, 2000.

Emergency and Information Contacts

  • North Side Routes: Chelan County Sheriff (509-667-6851), USFS Leavenworth Ranger Station (509-548-6977).
  • South Side Routes: Kittitas County Sheriff (509-962-7525), USFS Cle Elum Ranger Station (509-674-4411).
  • Or dial 911.

References

  1. Beckey, Fred, Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes, Vol. 1, Columbia River to Stevens Pass, Third Edition, The Mountaineers, 2000.
  2. Nelson, Jim and Peter Potterfield, Selected Climbs in the Cascades, The Mountaineers, 1993.

Eighteen Major Northwest Peaks

Mount Rainier Mount Shasta Mount Adams Mount Hood Mount Baker Glacier Peak
Mount Jefferson South Sister North Sister Middle Sister Mount Stuart Mount Thielsen
Broken Top Mount Shuksan Mount Saint Helens Mount Olympus Three Fingered Jack Mount Washington

Washington Niners

Bonanza Peak Mount Stuart Mount Fernow Goode Mountain Mount Shuksan
Buckner Mountain Mount Logan Mount Maude Seven Fingered Jack Jack Mountain

North Cascade Classic Peaks

Bonanza Peak Mount Stuart Mount Fernow Goode Mountain Mount Shuksan
Buckner Mountain Mount Logan Jack Mountain Mount Maude Mount Spickard
Black Peak Mount Redoubt North Gardner Mountain Dome Peak Silver Star Mountain
Eldorado Peak Dragontail Peak Forbidden Peak Mount Challenger