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Mount Stuart, Washington (9415 ft)
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Mount Stuart from Ingalls
Pass (south)
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High on the North Ridge
of Mount Stuart
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Wenatchee National Forest
Description
"Mount Stuart has been pronounced
the single greatest mass of exposed granite in the United States and dominates
the Central Washington Cascades. Mount Stuart lies at the west end of
a long string of granitic peaks (the Stuart Range) and is a massive east-west
wedge supported by the E, W, and N Ridges, and has a centrally placed
summit pyramid. Predominate southwesterly winds keep the SW flanks of
the peak relatively bare while depositing considerable snow in the N and
NE facing cirques to sustain the Stuart, Ice Cliff and Sherpa Glaciers.
Recent retreat has left hanging glaciers and ice cliffs well away from
their terminal moraines. The entire S flank is combed by gullies leading
at intervals to the summit ridges. These gullies are separated and interspersed
by complex and precipitous merging subridges and headwalls. Because of
its height and alpine nature, Mount Stuart has dangers unique to peaks
in this area and can be a dangerous lightning target. The mountaineering
problems are magnified by the mountain's massive dimensions and complexity."
- Beckey, Fred, Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes, Vol.
1, Columbia River to Stevens Pass, Third Edition, The Mountaineers,
2000.
Emergency and Information Contacts
- North Side Routes: Chelan County Sheriff (509-667-6851), USFS
Leavenworth Ranger Station (509-548-6977).
- South Side Routes: Kittitas County Sheriff (509-962-7525),
USFS Cle Elum Ranger Station (509-674-4411).
- Or dial 911.
References
- Beckey, Fred, Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes, Vol.
1, Columbia River to Stevens Pass, Third Edition, The Mountaineers,
2000.
- Nelson, Jim and Peter Potterfield, Selected Climbs in the Cascades,
The Mountaineers, 1993.
Eighteen Major Northwest Peaks
Washington Niners
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